Tiger Salamander

Tiger salamanders are large, docile, burrowing amphibians and one of the most commonly kept beginner salamanders in the US pet trade. They're nocturnal, fossorial carnivores that swallow prey whole, and their natural, expert-recommended diet is built around earthworms and nightcrawlers rather than insects. Feeder insects like dubia roaches are a genuine, vet-endorsed part of a rotation diet, but they supplement — not replace — a worm-based staple.

Note: earthworms/nightcrawlers, not feeder insects, are the true dietary staple for this species. Dubia roaches clear the bar as a genuine, vet-endorsed significant secondary staple, which is why this species is worth covering — but insects aren't the #1 food.

What to Feed

Earthworms/nightcrawlers are the recommended staple at every terrestrial life stage. Gut-loaded dubia roaches are genuinely recommended as a significant regular rotation feeder for juveniles and adults alike — one exotic-animal vet clinic care sheet lists dubia alongside earthworms as a core feeder. Mealworms and superworms are different: multiple care sheets caution against mealworms as a regular feeder — hard chitin exoskeleton, difficult to digest, and since salamanders swallow prey whole with no chewing, real impaction risk. Treat both as occasional rotation items (freshly molted/soft mealworms only), not staples. Waxworms/pinky mice should stay rare treats.

Feeding Schedule

• Juveniles (post-metamorphosis): every 1–2 days — Small dubia roach nymphs (about 50/week) work well in rotation with earthworms
• Adults, warm (~65–72°F+): 2–3x/week — Medium dubia roach nymphs (about 25–50/week)
• Adults, cool (below 60–65°F) / winter: as little as once a week, sometimes once every 1–2 weeks
• Offer only what's cleared in about 10–15 minutes — big appetites, readily overeat

Gut-Loading & Dusting

Gut-load 24–48 hours (up to 72 hours per some sources) before feeding. Dust lightly with calcium at most feedings for adults (~2–3x/week), higher end for fast-growing juveniles. This species is fossorial/nocturnal and standardly kept without UVB — use a low-D3 ("LoD") formula and dust lightly rather than heavily. One source considers supplementation unnecessary altogether if the worm-based staple is followed closely; light, infrequent low-D3 dusting is the more conservative default.

Common Mistakes

• Mealworms/superworms as an everyday staple instead of occasional — impaction risk
• Oversized prey — no wider than the salamander's head/body width
• Using standard high-D3 reptile calcium powder on a no-UVB animal — use low-D3
• Leaving uneaten roaches in the enclosure — will bite a resting salamander
• Handling the salamander or feeders with dry, unrinsed hands — thin, permeable skin